I wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago but only had 2 weeks annual leave. I can't carry a backpack for 2 weeks as my knees are not up to the task. The French Camino (the one in all the movies) is busy as Walmart on Black Friday so I chose The Camino Portuguese and did it the lazy way.

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The Camino Portuguese is one of many pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela.

The Camino is the most famous pilgrimage / long distance hike in the world. It is renowned as “life changing” and “the trip of a lifetime”. There are movies, books and volumes written about the soul searching and strangely compelling journey that entices over 250,000 people to trek this 2000 year old path (or paths) each year. This number has more than doubled since 2008.

However, there is more than one Camino that concludes at Santiago de Compostela. The most commonly known is the French Way (Camino Frances). Others Include the Northern Way (Camino del Norte) that runs along the northern coast of Spain and The Camino Portuguese that tracks from south to north through Portugal and crossing into Spain about halfway.

History...

Saint James Way

I am no history buff, but you can't walk the Camino without having some knowledge of its history. The Way of Saint James is the translation of Camino de Santiago as the body of Saint James the Apostle is reportedly buried there. Saint James died in the first century and was buried in a field near Padron on the Portuguese Way. It was discovered 8 centuries later and King Alfonso II built a chapel where the Cathedral now stands. The pilgrim numbers in the 12th and 13th centuries swelled to 250,000 and the many paths that now exist were carved as pilgrims from all over Western Europe and beyond made their way on foot to Santiago de Compostela.

Why the Portuguese Route

1 . It is less crowded – More than 3 times as many people walk the French Way compared to the Portuguese. As the second most popular route there are plenty of travelers along the route so it is well catered for in terms of accommodation, bars and eateries. It just doesn’t get the crowds and accommodation is not so competitively sort after.

2. Portugal is a beautiful, friendly and inexpensive country. The albergues are similarly priced to Spain but food is cheaper. The Portuguese are very laid back, humble and helpful. The scenery is delightful and varied. Explore ancient cities like, Porto, Ponte de Lima and Caldes de Reis in Spain with its thermal springs. There are forests and streams, hike along white sandy beaches, under vine arbors, through farms and vineyards. The landscape is ever changing.

3. The Porto to Santiago de Compostela takes about 11 or 12 days which fits beautifully into a 2 week vacation time.

4. The destination is Santiago de Compostela, as all Camino routes do. But like they say, it’s the journey, not the destination and the Portuguese trail is an unforgettable journey….. I don’t say that lightly.

In a nutshell

  • Distance Porto to Santiago de Compostella – 240km
  • Difficulty – easy / moderate
  • Duration – about 12 days hiking / 11 nights (without detours and stopovers)
  • Longest Days of Hiking – 33km but longer legs can be broken into 2 shorter days
  • Temperature - 6°C overnight in January to 30°C in July & August.
  • When to go – between spring & Autumn but summer is very, very busy. Spring is rainy.

The Lazy Way

Be flexible – If you get tired, sick or feel blisters are having their way with your feet quit for the day. A village with accommodation will never be too far away. Stop, rest, sleep and reenergize. One day I conked out after 15km and stopped for the night. The next day I felt reinvigorated and ended up walking 35km. Sure, I was totally stuffed after 35km but felt very pleased with myself, and hungry.

Pack your trekking poles and use them the whole way. Hiking poles are not just for up hills or rocky terrain, they are your best friend on long hikes. See my post Hiking Poles.  I noticed a lot of people lugging poles around on their backpack. No good up there. Use them every step and you will hike for longer and easier.

Pack light; really, really light. If you can’t travel light have your NON ESSENTIALS transported to Santiago de Compostela. And by non essentials, I mean all but minimum clothes and toiletries, first aid, money etc.. Be prepared to wash your clothes each night and that means quick dry clothing. Even if you are having your bag transported each day, pack light.

Tuitrans is your  friend! This is the perfect lazy way multi-day hike. No guides are required, no porters and no backpack to carry, if you so choose. Have your pack transported from each accommodation to the next via safe, reliable and insured courier; Tuitrans. They have been doing this a long time and for just €5 or €6 per bag per day, its a great deal. They collect your luggage from your accommodation or a designated pick up location and and will drop it off wherever you request at your next destination. If you are not exactly sure where you are staying then have it dropped at the first possible stay and carry it on your own, until you find your ideal home for the night. You only have to lump it a few kilometres rather than all day. If lugging your bag 1km to 5km is a problem then be sure to book ahead. My feet erupted into a mass of blisters about 2 days into the journey, and Tuitrans saved the day/ trip. Having to carry just a day pack was a lifesaver. 


Walk at your own pace. Find your pace for any given day, and it will vary from day to day and stick to it. There are no prizes for first across the line. Usain Bolt need not apply. I recall one German lady that walked at snails pace. Everyday she would start out early and being a late riser I would pass her around 11 am but she arrived a little later but made the same distance as everyone else each day, on average, and we finished together. Hare and the tortoise stuff.

How to get there

If you are coming by plane fly into Lisbon. It is a relatively flat city,  so a cycle tour of the city is a perfect way to see and enjoy the city. Try Lisbon Bike Rentals.

Then catch a train to Porto. The journey is about 3 hours and they run about every 2 hours via Portuguese Railways. There are also buses that run.  Porto is a beautiful city so take a day or 2 to look around.

Scenery

This is a combination urban and rural trek. That means you never have far to go for the next café con leche (coffee with milk), or local to have a charades chat with. Cobblestones village lanes, stone bridges, stunning architecture blended with forest, vineyards, farms and parks. See below for a tiny sample.

Highlights

  • “You are never alone on the Camino”. The people you meet are many and varied from around the world. You will make lifelong friendships forged by hours spent chatting and sharing with all ages and nationalities.
  • The therapy – you are entering a mobile psychology unit. Many people are searching for answers to life issues. Walking is meditative and many both religious and not are looking inward for clarity and direction. It sounds heavy but it is the most fun you can have while sorting out your sh*t.
  • The incense swinging at the Santiago Cathedral is something never to be forgotten.
  • Sleeping in albergues is noisy but fun. The camaraderie among pilgrims is almost instant.  Every albergues is different, some are old churches and monasteries and some purpose built.
  • The architecture is a feast for the eyes including the cobblestone roads. Cobblestones seems to diminish as you enter Spain. Although they are not so easy to walk on for 6 or 7 hours each day,  I still love them. Cathedrals, bridges, ancient doors and spires.
  • What to pack

    There are lots of comprehensive packing lists out there. These are a few items that need attention. This list is NOT comprehensive, but it is stuff I learned along the way

    AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE ....... REALLY

    • 2 quick dry t-shirts and 1 pair of shorts or pants plus casual pants or skirt for sightseeing at the end of each day.
    • Water – 2 litres as there are water fountains and cafes along the way. But carry enough water for 3 hours in hot weather.
    • Ear plugs – essential in albergues
    • First aid kit with blister plasters and foot lubricant
    • 4 pairs socks – the best socks money can buy. Change socks twice each day and wear 2 pairs including a wicking pair
    • Plasters, lots of plasters. Get some of those with the gel padding as well. Foot lubricant to minimize blisters. 
    • Sturdy hiking footwear – wear them in first.
    • Flip flops or sandals
    • Day pack – small and super comfortable. 
    • 55 litre backpack. No more. Don’t be tempted to carry more than 15% of your body weight. And a rain cover.
    • Hiking poles. Of course!
    • Sunhat, sunscreen, swimming suit & a tiny quick dry towel
    • The guidebook  and your Camino Passport – you can pick one up in Porto Cathedral  for a few pennies.
    • Pack a happy face and enjoy the locals, scenery and fellow pilgrims. 

          This is not an extensive list by any means!

    I am no pilgrim. The religious element did not feature at all in my motivation, however, that was the case for the majority of pilgrims / travelers. I had no inkling that it could be a spiritual journey. When I arrived at Santiago de Compostela and they asked me at the desk where you collect your certificate of completion; was this a spiritual journey, I hesitated and replied it was. I surprised myself with my answer. 

    Bon Camino!

    About the Author

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    I'm no athlete but have a burning sense of adventure. Now in my late 50's I'm finding ways to keep hiking and exploring the world under my own steam despite my failing body and broken down knees. I want to share my love of hiking and adventure as hiking is for everyone.


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    1. Thank you for this brief but concise description of the Portuguese Way. You have restored my interest in it.

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