Lares is the quiet sibling of the Inca Trail. At 33 km in length verses the 44 km of the Inca Trail, The Lares Trek offers an experience that feels like you have the Andes to yourself.

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This 4 day / 3 night trek goes higher than other trails in the area, up to almost 16000 ft. Although the stretch to Machu Picchu requires a short train / bus journey the trade off is a soothing soak in the oh so therapeutic Lares Hot Springs..ahhhh! What could be better after 3 days of foot travel!

In a Nutshell

  • Difficulty - moderate
  • Duration - 4 days / 3 nights
  • Distance - 34km
  • Longest Days of hiking - 14km
  • Maximum Elevation - 15,700ft
  • Change in elevation - 6,500ft
  • Temperature Range - 0° overnight to 20° year round
  • When to go: January is wettest. June is the driest

Like most multi-day hikes in the Machu Picchu / Cusco, area a tour guide is required. The trails pass though farms and private land and the landholders glean valuable income from the tour companies. The farmers are traditional alpaca, sheep and llama growers, and their home grown, home made goods can be purchased along the trek.

The trek leaves from Cuzco via bus to the tiny village of Punahuanca. The next 2 ½ days are spent hiking to the hot springs. From there you go by bus & train to Aguas Caliente at the base of Machu Picchu where a full day is devoted to hiking and touring around the iconic Inca ruins. 

The Lazy Way

For the ‘I’ve nothing to prove’ hiker, like me, most tour companies will carry all your camping equipment, food, clothing and personal items. All you need on your back during the day is your camera, a water bottle and raincoat; anything that you would have in a regular daypack. And if the altitude becomes too much, as it was for me, there is a taxi horse on standby to portage your person as far as necessary. Packs are carried by horses and these quadruped mountaineers seem to enjoy being out about as much as we did and, as an animal lover, they seemed to be well cared for.

The trail is classified as moderately difficult as it is somewhat technical on the rocky slopes but the distances are very manageable. It is the incline which makes this a little more challenging. If you experience altitude sickness (as I do) then it is very challenging and all preventative measures are advised at this elevation.

Scenery

The scenery along this trek is quite breathtaking. The crisp air at altitude allows for visibility for miles and miles. No procession of trekkers gives a feeling of isolation as if you are having a truly unique experience. The farmers dress in traditional style and can be seen shepherding their mixed flocks, often weaving or knitting whilst tending the animals. It is the stuff that hikers dream of.

Sightings of llamas and alpacas are assured, chinchillas are commonly seen and other wildlife like the Andean fox is less common.

At the summit the view is almost 360° across the valleys on both sides of the pass. The air is so clear and crisp that on clear days you can see for miles and miles. The landscape varies from rocky outcrops, ruins, mossy forests and grassy unfenced pastures as well as streams and ponds.

Highlights

The trek is nothing if not varied and there was so much to see and do along the way. The obvious highlight is Machu Picchu but the Quechua people have more on offer than the world heritage Inca City.

  • Lares Hot Springs - natures healing hot tub. Although a very "natural" colour the water is clean and fresh out of the ground.
  • Encounters with local shepherds and villagers tending their alpacas, llamas & sheep
  • Sikllakasa Pass at the summit of the trail at 15,850 ft or 4,830 m above sea level. Stunning 360° views
  • Entering Agues Caliente by train at night was something out of an Agatha Christie book
  • Machu Picchu – what can I say….it is everything its reputation would have you believe
  • Fellow hikers - you always meet like minded people from all over the world, with stories of their adventures and lives at home, wherever that may be.

Food

No culinary comforts are forsaken due to the remoteness of the setting. The porters and their horses have carried kitchen and food ahead of you and each meal is presented in a tent, as if conjured by magic. I am not one to travel to eat but the food on this trek was remarkable, given the circumstances and harshness of the location. Lunch and dinner were 3 and 4 courses, all served hot. As a lifelong vegetarian there was no compromising on culinary delights. Meals are taken in a meal tent with your new hiking friends. Our group was composed of folk from Switzerland, The U.S., Netherlands and Australia. No one went hungry or without a good laugh.

Who to go with. How to get there.

Who:Llama Path were everything I could hope for. There were 12 people on our trek and we had 2 guides and about 6 cooks and sherpas... and they were all excellent. I get no commission from this recommendation.  The organisation was professional yet friendly, the food and was amazing. 

How to get there: The trek leaves form Cuzco. Most flights go via Lima. It may be less expensive to fly to Lima and catch a local airline to Cuzco. Avianca Airline was very good for internal flights in Peru. However, I would recommend travelling to Cuzco by bus. Firstly it is cheaper and secondly Cuzco is 11,000 ft above sea level and Lima is just 5,000 ft. If there is a chance you will suffer altitude sickness, take the bus as the slow ascent is much better for adjusting. Then plan to spend at least 2 or 3 days in Cuzco. Altitude sickness is dangerous and can spoil your holiday. 

Lares is the quiet sibling of the Inca Trail. At 33 km in length verses the 44 km of the Inca Trail, The Lares Trek offers an experience that feels like you have the Andes to yourself. This 4 day / 3 night trek

About the Author

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I'm no athlete but have a burning sense of adventure. Now in my late 50's I'm finding ways to keep hiking and exploring the world under my own steam despite my failing body and broken down knees. I want to share my love of hiking and adventure as hiking is for everyone.


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